by Allen Pierleoni, Sacramento Bee, February 18, 2015

We’ve been ricocheting around town recently, stopping here and there on the chance of discovering some choice chews. And we did.


In January, I gave four stars to Sammy’s restaurant inside Stones Gambling Hall for its diverse menu of excellent fare. We sampled a tableful of items at that lunch, including duck tacos and a New York-style mushroom-sausage pizza smeared with basil pesto, hot out of the oak-fired oven.

We saved the boneless short ribs for another day, which happened to arrive last week. The dark, tender-chewy beef had soaked for 24 hours in a proprietary marinade of soy sauce, vinegar, sesame oil, garlic and ginger. Then it was quick-fired on the broiler-grill, arriving at the table with two marinated slaws (white and red cabbages and carrot, and daikon radish and carrot) and white rice ($12). We splashed the rice with the leftover sauce from the pork dumpling appetizer and made it all vanish.

Sammy’s, 6508 Antelope Road, Citrus Heights; (916) 735-8440,

Allen Pierleoni: (916) 321-1128@apierleonisacbe