by Allen Pierleoni, Sacramento Bee, February 18, 2015

We’ve been ricocheting around town recently, stopping here and there on the chance of discovering some choice chews. And we did.

SAMMY’S

In January, I gave four stars to Sammy’s restaurant inside Stones Gambling Hall for its diverse menu of excellent fare. We sampled a tableful of items at that lunch, including duck tacos and a New York-style mushroom-sausage pizza smeared with basil pesto, hot out of the oak-fired oven.

We saved the boneless short ribs for another day, which happened to arrive last week. The dark, tender-chewy beef had soaked for 24 hours in a proprietary marinade of soy sauce, vinegar, sesame oil, garlic and ginger. Then it was quick-fired on the broiler-grill, arriving at the table with two marinated slaws (white and red cabbages and carrot, and daikon radish and carrot) and white rice ($12). We splashed the rice with the leftover sauce from the pork dumpling appetizer and made it all vanish.

Sammy’s, 6508 Antelope Road, Citrus Heights; (916) 735-8440, www.sammyspizza.comwww.stonesgamblinghall.com

Allen Pierleoni: (916) 321-1128@apierleonisacbe